faceting angles - step cut sapphirefaceting angles - step cut sapphire

Choosing Faceting Angles


With so many recommended faceting angles, new gem cutters can have a hard time choosing one. Learn the basic guidelines and some exceptions to the rules.

4 Minute Read

With the advent of computerized ray tracing programs, such as GemRay, this situation changed. Gem cutters tested old theories and added new insights. Although many old principles have been clarified or improved, the move to shallower crown angles represents the only significant change. Some of the older, but still excellent, books on faceting don’t have this information.

For newcomers, all those recommended choices for faceting angles can be bewildering. Why are there so many variations? The simple fact is that most of them work fairly well!

Below, you’ll find a summary of current guidelines for choosing faceting angles. While these general guidelines do have some exceptions, they’ll help you get the greatest brilliance from your cutting.

Choosing Pavilion Angles

By far, the most important decision a faceter must make is choosing the correct pavilion main angles. Fortunately, it’s very simple. For almost all the materials we gem cutters cut, 42° will give you the greatest brilliance.

This standard practice has a few exceptions:

  • For gems with a refractive index (RI) under 1.6, picking an angle of 43° will minimize windowing.
  • Consider 41° for gems with a very high RI (around 2).
  • However, until you


Donald Clark, CSM IMG

The late Donald Clark, CSM founded the International Gem Society in 1998. Donald started in the gem and jewelry industry in 1976. He received his formal gemology training from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the American Society of Gemcutters (ASG). The letters “CSM” after his name stood for Certified Supreme Master Gemcutter, a designation of Wykoff’s ASG which has often been referred to as the doctorate of gem cutting. The American Society of Gemcutters only had 54 people reach this level. Along with dozens of articles for leading trade magazines, Donald authored the book “Modern Faceting, the Easy Way.”

Latest Articles

More Articles
Classic Engagement Ring StonesPastel purple sapphire</a>, 1.08 cts, 5.8 mm, round cut, Sri Lanka. © <a href=https://www.gemsociety.org/article/choosing-angles-for-faceting/"https://www.thegemtrader.com/">The Gem Trader</a>. Used with permission." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" decoding="async" data-nimg="responsive" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 50%"/>

Classic Engagement Ring Stones

Emerald, ruby, sapphire, and diamond are the most popular choices for classic engagement ring stones. Learn more about these traditional...
Read More
Broken Bangle — The Blunder-Besmirched History of Jade Nomenclature: Book Review

Broken Bangle — The Blunder-Besmirched History of Jade Nomenclature: Book Review

Is fei cui a better term for "pyroxene jade" than jadeite? Jeffery Bergman reviews Broken Bangle, a new book on...
Read More
Cuprite Value, Price, and Jewelry InformationJoel E. Arem</a>, PhD, FGA. Used with permission." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" decoding="async" data-nimg="responsive" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 50%"/>

Cuprite Value, Price, and Jewelry Information

One of the rarest of all facetable gems, cut cuprites can show magnificent deep red color. However, these beautiful stones...
Read More
Gemstone Radiation TreatmentPhoto courtesy of <a href=https://www.gemsociety.org/article/choosing-angles-for-faceting/"https://www.liveauctioneers.com/">liveauctioneers.com and <a href=https://www.gemsociety.org/article/choosing-angles-for-faceting/"https://www.liveauctioneers.com/auctioneer/1081/eros-auctions-inc/">Eros Auctions, Inc</a>." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" decoding="async" data-nimg="responsive" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 50%"/>

Gemstone Radiation Treatment

Gemstone radiation is a common but little understood technique for altering colors. Learn how it works and what gems usually...
Read More

Never Stop Learning

When you join the IGS community, you get trusted diamond & gemstone information when you need it.

Become a Member

Get Gemology Insights

Get started with the International Gem Society’s free guide to gemstone identification. Join our weekly newsletter & get a free copy of the Gem ID Checklist!