blue sapphireblue sapphire

Evaluating Gemstone Cutting: The Five Ps


In recent decades, something remarkable invaded the thinking process of the colored stone industry. From dealers to consumers, they all discovered “The Cut.”

14 Minute Read

The Role of Nature in Gem Evaluation

Even a cursory review of color, clarity, and carat and their functions reveals that Nature bestows these qualities on gems. We have little control over them.

Color?

What is gemstone color but a visual demonstration of contamination? Trace amounts of visiting chemicals create an exciting array of gem colors. Take the mineral corundum, for example. Add sufficient chromium and the great, grand ruby emerges. Then, add iron oxide and luscious sapphire arises. That same iron oxide added to the mineral beryl produces aquamarine. But add that same chromium to beryl and you get a shimmering emerald. These awesome transformations occur in nature.

In the laboratory, that arena of human manipulation, we can exert our will over gem color. However, we simply mimic the natural phenomenon.

Clarity?

For how many eons did the heat and pressure of geological forces rudely forge gem crystals out of trapped chemicals? These forces left telltale markers as undeniable evidence of this natural process. Next, consider what other forces — primitive mining operations, accidents, and stone papers — introduced additional “demerits” to gemstones. Humans have very little power over clarity. Attempts to duplicate natural looking…


Dr. Gerald Wykoff GG CSM

Dr. Gerald Wykoff is GG (Graduate Gemologist), a CSM (Certified Supreme Master gemcutter), educator, and author of several gemology books. He founded the American Society of Gemcutters in the 1980s and served for more than 10 years as the editor of its monthly magazine, American Gemcutter.

Related Articles

More Articles
Chrome Tourmaline Buying GuideChrome tourmaline</a>, shield cut by Loren Brown, 3.71 cts, Tanzania. © <a href=https://www.gemsociety.org/article/evaluating-the-cut/"https://rsagems.com/">RSA Gems</a>. Used with permission." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" decoding="async" data-nimg="responsive" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 50%"/>

Chrome Tourmaline Buying Guide

Rare chrome tourmaline can show an emerald-like green color. With a highly desired color and tourmaline's excellent qualities as a...
Read More
Blue Tourmaline (Indicolite) Buying Guide

Blue Tourmaline (Indicolite) Buying Guide

Our indicolite buying guide can help you learn how these blue tourmalines are graded, what to avoid, and how to...
Read More
An Introduction to Gemstone Grading

An Introduction to Gemstone Grading

How goes gemstone grading work? Learn how gemologists evaluate both diamonds and colored gems and the qualities they examine.
Read More

Colored Stone Grading System

"Just Ask Jeff" shares his thoughts on the Color Stone Grading System of The GIA. In May 2008, he had...
Read More

Latest Articles

More Articles
Classic Engagement Ring StonesPastel purple sapphire</a>, 1.08 cts, 5.8 mm, round cut, Sri Lanka. © <a href=https://www.gemsociety.org/article/evaluating-the-cut/"https://www.thegemtrader.com/">The Gem Trader</a>. Used with permission." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" decoding="async" data-nimg="responsive" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 50%"/>

Classic Engagement Ring Stones

Emerald, ruby, sapphire, and diamond are the most popular choices for classic engagement ring stones. Learn more about these traditional...
Read More
Broken Bangle — The Blunder-Besmirched History of Jade Nomenclature: Book Review

Broken Bangle — The Blunder-Besmirched History of Jade Nomenclature: Book Review

Is fei cui a better term for "pyroxene jade" than jadeite? Jeffery Bergman reviews Broken Bangle, a new book on...
Read More
Cuprite Value, Price, and Jewelry InformationJoel E. Arem</a>, PhD, FGA. Used with permission." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" decoding="async" data-nimg="responsive" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 50%"/>

Cuprite Value, Price, and Jewelry Information

One of the rarest of all facetable gems, cut cuprites can show magnificent deep red color. However, these beautiful stones...
Read More
Gemstone Radiation TreatmentPhoto courtesy of <a href=https://www.gemsociety.org/article/evaluating-the-cut/"https://www.liveauctioneers.com/">liveauctioneers.com and <a href=https://www.gemsociety.org/article/evaluating-the-cut/"https://www.liveauctioneers.com/auctioneer/1081/eros-auctions-inc/">Eros Auctions, Inc</a>." src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" decoding="async" data-nimg="responsive" style="position:absolute;top:0;left:0;bottom:0;right:0;box-sizing:border-box;padding:0;border:none;margin:auto;display:block;width:0;height:0;min-width:100%;max-width:100%;min-height:100%;max-height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 50%"/>

Gemstone Radiation Treatment

Gemstone radiation is a common but little understood technique for altering colors. Learn how it works and what gems usually...
Read More

Never Stop Learning

When you join the IGS community, you get trusted diamond & gemstone information when you need it.

Become a Member

Get Gemology Insights

Get started with the International Gem Society’s free guide to gemstone identification. Join our weekly newsletter & get a free copy of the Gem ID Checklist!